If ’68 Firebirds are your drug this car is crack. Pontiac may have built 2099 400 HO cars in 1968 but they are every bit as rare as Ram Air cars when it comes to seeing them come up for sale and I have NEVER seen one like this. This is the highest optioned ’68 Firebird 400 car I have ever come across. Not only is it 1 of 1415 4 speed cars but it has the following factory ordered equip.
1.) 360hp HO 400
2.) Fold down back seat
3.) Tilt wheel
4.) Console with clock
5.) Rally steering wheel
6.) Disc brakes
7.) Power steering
8.) Rear mounted antennae
9.) Hood tach
10.) Rally wheels with redlines
11.) M-21 close ratio muncie 4 speed
12.) 3:34 safe-t-tac rear end still with orig tags and multi leaf suspension
13.) Side body mouldings
14.) rear seat speaker
15>) rear defogger
This car also has it original “WQ” block with matching vin stamp, orig “16” heads and original intake (with choke pull off) and orig uber rare HO exhaust manifolds (try finding a set of these!) It is a very complete car missing only the carb, flywheel and shifter. All 3 of which the seller assured me was included then decided to keep them after I paid him. (If you ever come across a guy named Dennis Tuttle do yourself a favor and run the other direction. If you don’t know the name google it and take my word for it, even though I told him I was gonna give him the benefit of the doubt he proved its all true. )
The block, heads, crank and intake have all been hot tanked, checked for cracks (none found), repainted, oiled down and assembled with a few bolts to make the car easy to haul. The block will need .030 taken out and new pistons. The heads are complete with orig valve covers, rockers, springs, valves, ect but will probably need a valve job. The crank may get by with only a polish. The orig oil pan, oil pickup, fuel pump, coil and coil bracket, throttle cable, orig water pump, water pump housing, radiator, fan and shroud, crank and fan pulley, harm bal, alternator, starter, ps pump, air cleaner, rare #1111449 HO/Ram air distributor, distributor cap, plug wires and rally wheel trim rings are all there.
The Muncie trans and bellhousing are both orig to the car. I also have a clutch and pressure plate that looks to be at least the orig style.
This car has been off the road since 1989 but due to neglect the body will need some rust repair but it is structurally very sound. I didn’t find any signs of collision damage so I don’t think it has ever been in any serious wrecks. The front left fender has been replaced at some point (probably the same whiskey dent that broke the drivers side grill.) and it appears some bonehead tried to move it with a forklift and boogered up the rear of the car but it needs both quarters from rust damage down low anyway so the forklift damage is of no consequence. The center part of the trunk floor needs replaced but the inner and outer wheel wells, shock mounts, trunk drop offs, ect are all still very solid. Replacing the center is FAR easier than a full trunk pan. I know, Ive done both. The worst rust damage is to the floor pans. (pans that Dennis claimed were “mint”-then after I got the car stated he may not have ever checked them but he “thought” they were mint-yeah right). It appears they rotted out due to the windows being left down and the carpet never drying out. The car needs front and rear pans both sides. A one piece pan might be the way to go but 4 separate pans would fix it too. The under the rear seat area is real nice with no rust holes at all and no swelling at inner wheel well seams. All the rockers and all rear frame rails are real nice on the car. Due to ebay limiting me to 24 pics I only posted one pic of a frame rail but it is representative of both rear rails. They have no blistering or show any signs of deterioration at all. The car has factory undercoating and this is probably what saved most of the underside structural areas. The drivers door is good but the pass door will need a little work in the front bottom corner. Both door jambs and hinge areas are nice. The fenders are both pretty good but will probably need minor attention after they are stripped. The front valance is even savable. The hood and deck lid both will need a little work but are certainly worth saving as the fit is factory and the hood doesn’t appear to be tweaked as most are. The front bumper looks to be in amazing shape. I cant find any dents or tweaks and the chrome is still good but does need a polish and adjusted properly to fit the drivers side fender and hood. The rear bumper is obviously bent thanks to the overly enthusiastic forklift driver but a good bumper shop may be able to straighten it as the chrome is still nice. The gauges still have good color and the lenses aren’t cracked. The steering wheel should be an easy restoration as there are only a few cracks and the spokes just need a good cleaning and respray. The seat tracks are in great shape. I cleaned and oiled them and they work good. The rear door panels are in very good shape and may not need anything. The fronts are also good but need a new carpet strip at the bottom. The wheels are 14x7 torque thrust. All the glass is good (except windshield). White with black interior are the cars orig colors.
I am only selling this very desirable project as I have too many projects ahead of it and don’t know when Ill get to it. I don’t know if you’ve noticed but good, complete project cars with their orig drivetrain have all but disappeared. Just look at whats on ebay today. 95% of listed cars are restored cars. Don’t let this one get away. I have complete PHS docs.
I have done my best to describe this car but there is no accounting for individual taste. As usual winning bid is NOT an invitation to inspect but a legally binding contract to purchase. This car is available for inspection any time prior to auction ending. I urge any interested parties to either inspect car themselves or send someone to act as their agent. YOU WIN THE AUCTION I EXPECT YOU TO PAY FOR THE CAR. This car is sold without warranty. 20% non-refundable down pymt due 7 days after auction end. Vehicle must be picked up within 3 weeks or storage charges will apply.
Don't bother emailing me with pointless questions like "what is least you will take for it"? (I want the most I can get, duh!) or "what is your reserve"?
If your a serious buyer make me a serious offer or just bid on it.
WHATEVER YOU DO DONT BID ON IT IF YOU CANT COMMIT. I don't have time or patience for buyers who back out after they have won the auction and outbid other parties who may actually want the car.